First, a dedication. I would like to dedicate this blog to Mim to thank her for my Rick Steves Spain guidebook. This book served as an excellent source of info everywhere we went and we couldn't have done so much in one weekend without it - so Thanks Mim! Now to the blog ...
weekend was La Merce festival) and my feet ached by the end of the second day! But, we really pounded the pavement and packet it in to see as much this weekend as possible and it was fantastic! Though ... the trip did not begin with a bang. Out flight (scheduled for 9:45 pm on Thursday) did not take off until 12:15 am Friday morning. However, I did actually bring some homework with me so the delay was surprisingly productive. Our delay put us into the empty Barcelona airport at about 2 am and we had to taxi to the hostel (not a bad fare split 3 ways) and arrived into our 12-person room to find two poor people trying to sleep while we moved it. It couldn't be helped and we were as quiet as possible (once we realized they were there). Our hostel was pretty decent. Our room had 6 bunks and a security locker for each bunk. We even got a bottom lenin for free ... though we had to pay for a top sheet and towel. lol. Exhausted, we all quickly fell asleep on the surprisingly cushy mattresses - thus spending our first night in Catalonia.
The next morning, I arose early to enjoy the hostel's (nice and clean) shower and the free breakfast. Then, I set out with John and Lindsay (the other early risers) and we ventured out to explore. We opted for the clique double-decker tourist bus for our first day as it gave us a good overview and helped orient us to the city. The weather was pleasant with cool breeze and warm sun on the top deck of our bus. The first sights (very near to our hostel) were two buildings designed by architect Antoni Gaudi - a pioneer of the catalan modernist style. Casa Battlo (Battle House) was a house inspired by the story of Saint George slaying the dragon and includes a roof of shimmering scales and pillars of victims' bones supporting the balconies. The tours then circled the northwest sights of the city including the Olympic Park (Barcelona Summer Olympics 1992), Montujc Hill where there's an old castle and a great view, The Pueblo (a collection of Spanish architecture from across the ages), and the Caixa Forum building. The bus made it's way to the sea and took us by the Colombus monument, the zoo, the aquarium and the port.
After taking the entire red tour we hopped on the blue line which passed by more Gaudi sights. We hopped off the bus when it stopped at the most famous Gaudi sight: The Sagrada Familia Cathedral. This cathedral is gigantic and it's not even complete yet. Gaudi started this project in 1883 but when he died in 1927, the project was still unfinished.
was slightly depressing but the way the book threw in this tidbit seemed a bit irreverent. I don't remember the exact quote but it was something like ... "Careful taking pictures of this Gaudi building by this busy street; Gaudi met
his end under a streetcar." Anyway, this cathedral was magnificent even in
it's unfinished form. The cathedral's two side entrances are finished but the long leg of the Cathedral's cross shape still needs to be constructed. On both side entrances there are facades depicting the
Nativity and the Passion (the final entrance will be the sight for the Glory facade). The Passion facade was our first sight, but it actually wasn't designed by Gaudi and instead was completed by Joseph Maria Subirachs. The Nativity is the only facade that Gaudi completed in his lifetime and it is unbelievable elaborate. The name given to describe the Gaudi's style in this piece is "cake in the rain" and this description is perfect for the drippy, mud castle look of this side. It is really quite impressive and very intricate when viewed up
close.
Speaking of viewing Gaudi's work up close ... we next decided to
take the 2.50 euro ride up to the top of the spires on the Nativity side of the cathedral. The view from up there was nothing short of amazing. We could look out over downtown Barcelona to the hills and the sea. The height also allow us to view the spires up close and truly appreciate Gaudi's work. There are a dozen smaller spires (that represent the disciples). There are four 330 ft spires on either side and
(according to Rick Steves)
their shape was inspired by the cone shaped hats that Bishops wear. There are going to be two (bigger) spires in the center when the cathedral is complete: a 400 ft Mary tower and a 550 foot Jesus tower. Each tower is an impressive feat and a cathedral with this many is really impressive. Our elevator only climbed up so that meant we got to walk across the bridge connecting two spires and then climb all the way down the
spiral staircase in the other tower by foot. Even the climb down was enjoyable as the tower had many vista points on the way down. We then entered the sanctuary - which was equally impressiv
e. It is filled with columns and it has some of the most beautiful stained glass I've ever seen. The colors are brilliant and the light shining through them contrasts strikingly with solid stone walls. Also, Gaudi cleverly placed holes in the walls and ceiling to create a speckled "light through a tree canopy" lighting of the room which feels both beautiful and natural. It was pretty even though there is still scaffolding even in the sanctuary. Rick Steves claims that the sanctuary might by ready in 2011 to host services and they seem to be making progress (when he was here last the beautiful stained glass had not yet been placed in the walls). This cathedral was an altogether impressive sight and a project that took an architect gumption to start ... I've decided that I like Gaudi.
It seemed appropriate then to continue on to our Gaudi path to Parc Guell. Gaudi designed this park first as a gated residential community ... but only one house was ever built there (his). Essentially this residential community flopped but the place makes a lovely park not and the architecture is still very pretty. 
There are walls and buildings at the gate that are very Gaudi. He placed statues on the grand staircase leading up the the building of a thousand pillars (designed to
be the market for the community). One of these statues is a characteristic lizarWe also
toured Gaudi's house in the p
ark
with a discounted combo ticket from
the Sagrada Familia. It wasn't quite worth full price, but for the discounted 2 euro rate, it was neat to see a house
that Gaudi actually designed and lived in. This park was a great place to see and only further reinforced my new interest in Gaudi's catalonian modernist style. I love his use of the mosaic esthetic in his work. It makes for a characteristic look in his works and helps to define him as an architect and artist in my mind. Again, I think I'm a fan.
So after this, we took the rest of our blue line bus tour and got off near our hostel. Weary, we rested for a bit and chatted with one of our roommates - a girl from Australia who was traveling in Europe by herself for 10 days (Paris, Barcelona, Rome and Florence). She was very friendly and it was neat to talk with her. I think she is a very brave traveler to be going off by herself but said she has met nice people everywhere she's been and she's having a wonderful trip. She suggested that we venture out to the beach where some Merce festivities were going on ... so we did. We took the metro out and heard fireworks so we walked toward the beach where they were shooting them. However, we only caught the tail end of them reflected in the buildings that surrounded us as we walked toward the beach. Still we saw the beach at night and walked around a little before heading back to our hostel area for a dinner at at a place called QuQu. It was ok and quick - which was good because we were tired. We slept soundly that night - after a very busy day - with plans to rise early the next morning.
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