Rainy Rabat: sharing with Moroccan students, seeing sights, and bathing in a public hammam

The sun rose earlier this morning (as there’s a two hour time difference) but I slept so heavily I missed the 5 am call to prayer (chanted from the minaret of the nearest mosque). I dressed and went out to greet our family – and I met Hassan and Alicpia’s adorable 11-month-old son Bahrat. Hassan had the baby in his arms when I came our, and to my delight he introduced me to the Bahrat and then let me hold him. His dark eyes and dark curly hair were precious. I bounced him and chatted with him while he played with my big silver necklace and grabbed at my nose and bangs. He was so smiley and babbled happy baby-speak all the while. I even got to give him some of his bottle before we ate. He was just darling! Also, I was impressed by how trusting Hassan was. I had only met the man 12 hours ago, and he let me sleep in his home and hold his tiny baby son. It was a gesture that made me feel welcome and at home (even in a foreign-feeling land).

Breakfast was a variety of breads and spreads (fried cakes, pancakes, rolls, olive oil, cheese spread, honey) and delicious Moroccan mint tea (so fresh and sweet!). After breakfast, Hassan led us back to our meeting place (to make sure we knew the way) and said goodbye until lunchtime.

From here, we bussed to the a Boys’ Center in Sale (the poorer region across the river from Rabat) for another discussion with students. This center helps boys (especially from poorer backgrounds) with education and work. It also gives them a haven to hang out that gets them off the streets. One of students who spoke with us helps in the center. He says it is important to get these boys off the streets and away from dangerous influences. A few years ago, there were bombings in Casablanca that were the work of terrorists. These bombings were carried out by young men in hard economic situations with no hope anything better – boys like the ones this center reaches out to help. If these boys have no hope, they are more likely to fall prey to these terrorist groups (with offers of food, shelter, money or drugs). This center is working to prevent that by giving the boys a haven and a future thorough this center. We held out discussion in the main room of the center and talked about stereotypes and the media over more Moroccan tea and cookies.

From there, we proceeded to the Burial ground of Mohammad V (king of Morocco 2 kings ago). There was a huge paved space covered in columns and a giant tower on one side (that were originally built to become an enourmous mosque but the project was never finished). The monument was a large, ornately carved white building that holds the coffin of Mohammad V. It was a beautiful sight (even despite the chilly rain that fell upon our arrival).

Next, we went to visit the Roman Ruins of Chellah. These ruins were once a Roman city. They have since been used as a Spanish burial ground before becoming the public gardens that they are now. It was enchanting to walk around the ruins of a city that was built under the great Roman Empire. The flowers were also pretty. We also visited a pool that is a common site women visit when they wish to get pregnant. They visit this pool and throw a shelled hard-boiled egg into the water, where eels lurk in the shadows. It is said to be a favorable sign if one of the eels swims up and eats the egg (a self-explanatory metaphor). A man by the pool threw in an egg for us just so we could see the eels. It worked and they ate it … the sign there, unknown? The only damper – it was raining quite a bit so our stroll got us a little wet.

We returned to our homes for a little rest and some lunch. The neighbors (mother, daughter and son) from upstairs came down and joined us. We had couscous (like yesterday) but served in one giant bowl for everyone. The bowl was set in the middle of the table and everyone ate from the general triangle area in from of him/her. Alicpia and one of the other ladies even ate with their hands, taking up an handful of couscous and toss-spinning it into a sticky ball until it was solid enough to eat. The daughter was shy but spoke to us a tiny bit in English (she’s learning English in school). The boy had just come from kickboxing lessons and gave us a brief demo when Alicpia prompted him. After lunch, Alicpia showed Lauren and I pictures of Bahrat on her camera. I was struck with slight surprise upon seeing her in a picture at the beach wearing a headscarf and full hijab. Since I had only ever seen her in the home – I’d never even seen her wearing a scarf and it was a little strange to see her so completely covered at the beach of all places. It was an interesting realization. Next, she showed us the picture album of her wedding. It was beautiful! She told us that the bride in a Moroccan wedding can change clothes up to 6 times with a different outfit for each of the days activities. It was so neat that she shared this with us.
After lunch, we met and walked each had the opportunity to walk around Rabat with Moroccan students in small groups. John, Ann Marie and I walked around with two Moroccan boys. One is studying mechanical engineering and the other is an aspiring writer. We walked around the old Medina, along the beach, up through the market, past the parliament and other government buildings and finally back to our neighborhood. We saw

stands with mounds of fresh mint, a grill roasting sheep heads, and even tried cactus fruit from a street vendor (surprisingly sweet and predictably juicy). Conversation was great, and we covered covered an unbelievable range of topics: action movies, beaches, body boarding, Americans, dating, the Nasa Space program and divorce to name a few. In general, I found these boys to be open-minded and respectful. We argued, we disagreed, but we did so in a healthy, kind way. Meeting them was a wonderful opportunity and we’ve already become Facebook friends to keep in touch (how small the world is becoming). After our student walk, we talked with Alicia about travel opportunities like Peace Corps and Fullbright. Then we ran home to grab soap and buckets, for a truly unique bathing experience ...

Hammams (Arab-style public baths) are very common in Morocco. After a some time spent waiting in a cold drizzle and a little confusion about where to go, we arrived at our hammam and were led to the dressing room. Hammams consist of steamy rooms where people to go scrub themselves clean and rinse with buckets of hot water from faucets in the walls. They are separated by gender and Moroccans usually go to the Hammam about once a week. We arrived ready to get squeaky clean with the scrubbing gloves and olive oil soap Alicia had given us. The kicker … women usually do this topless. After a decisive bonding moment in the dressing room, we too left our tops behind and entered the steamy room feeling liberated. (***No photos included***). It really inspired a sense of sharing as we scrubbed together in a steam filled, judgment-free room. There was even the option of getting a scrub from an attendant. Isabel said she does this every time and Alicia raved about it … so I took the plunge and paid the extra 5 euros for a massage-type scrub. I figured, when in Morocco! It was a strange experience – pleasant but something I would never have done in the US. After applying the olive oil soap I lay down. Being scrubbed by this woman, I felt like a baby being washed by her mother. He touch was firm but gentle and reassuring. At times, though the rough glove was almost painful, but not quite, as layers of dead skin were scrubbed from my body (gross? sorry). But afterwards, oh my. My skin was smoother than it has been in a long time. I literally couldn’t stop touching my arms because they were so soft. It was delightful. It was a bathing experience unlike any other and one I will never forget.

We returned to our homestays feeling clean and refreshed. Our supper was another communal bowl, this one full of vegetables and meat that we ate with pieces of bread (in lieu of silverware). After dinner, Alicpia asked us excitedly if we’d care to try on some traditional Moroccan clothes. Of course we said yes. A minute later, she emerged from her bedroom with two of her wedding dresses! They were exquisite with shining beadwork and delicate embroidery. She dressed us with care and loved taking pictures of us in her beautiful dresses. After, she asked if we wanted to try on more, and though we were tired we agreed without hesitation. We shared in several rounds of dress-up/photo shoot, with Alicpia even joining us by the end while Hassan took the photos. It was an amazing way for her to share her culture with us (and the pics were pretty cute too!) After, we really were exhausted and I was asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.