Library coughing Paris!

So, another week in Spain is almost over. Time is moving with strange jumps and stops that are difficult to explain. To help you think in my calendar, this week I started working some on my final course papers (of which I have three).

This week I met with professors and armed with their advice I set out to the library (a building I had visited twice before but never used). I successfully found one book on St. Teresa de Jesus (a Spanish mystic poet). The organization is rather different here and I have no idea what library system of organization they use. The call number for this book was S N TER MIS (S- Not sure, N - Novellas, TER MIS - abbreviation of the title). However the call number for my second book was H/N P JUA SAN. After asking a few helpful people I was told that H/N referred to another library in a building across campus. I would need to check out and then go there for this other book. I checked out two books (Santa Teresa and a Paris travel book - more info later) and then headed across campus. There I successfully found my second book (another on mystic poetry). It was an adventure and I had some nerdy fun learning how to find things in a different library - Now, my goal is to put those books to use and hopefully make a dent on those papers!

Tuesday I had the misfortune of developing a small cough that became a bigger cough and now is a bigger cough that is dying down (thank goodness!).

I am glad to be feeling better, because tomorrow morning I leave to catch an important flight. We have a long weekend (Nov 1st is All Saints' Day) so I am border hopping to spend the weekend in Paris! I am incredibly excited (having never been to Paris and always wanted to go). I hope to hit all the major sites and also enjoy the Chocolate Festival that Paris will host this weekend. My excitement could not even be dampened by all the striking that is making the news. Happily, our flight seems to have dodged the "cancelled" bullet and we are set to fly out tomorrow. I of course will be careful and promise not to join any angry French protesters, and hopefully our weekend will not be negatively affected by striking. However, the protests seem to be dying down for the moment, which I would appreciate - at least for the weekend. I'll be traveling with Lindsay and John to Paris and, once there, we are meeting Kaleb (from Stetson, studying in Avignon) and a friend from his program.

So, I leave you for the weekend but with the promise of many stories to tell when I return. Hasta el lunes :)

A few thoughts

I'm back. I hope you all enjoyed my little break and the guest appearance of Mom on the blog. I know I did :) And I'm not only saying that because I got a week off blogging ... It was so wonderful to have Mom here to visit me. I've been here now for just shy of two months. I've fallen into the routine of the city. That isn't a bad thing. I have become comfortable here in Madrid. I barely look at the metro map now and I have even planned several trips outside of the city on my own. I am navigating a world in Spanish and I can tell that if anything my speaking confidence has grown. I even have been told that I "sound like I'm from Spain" when I speak Spanish now. So that makes me happy. At the most basic level, that's why I'm here. I would like to say that I am speaking better too ... but that is harder for me to judge. I feel like things are coming more naturally than in the past - and 2 months in I hope that they are!

I am also having enormous travel opportunities. Morocco was amazing. I am also so grateful to be exploring Spain so fully (with Barcelona and Toledo in the first weeks and now Granada, Seville, Segovia and Cuenca with mom). Then, these next three weekends will be my busy international travel as I make my way to Paris, Lisbon (Portugal) and Milan. I am so excited for these journeys that I almost have to pull back my excitement to keep from feeling overwhelmed. Usually I look forward to a trip for at least a month before going - but as I am have packed in these weekends, I almost have to restrain excitement individually until the week of the trip. So, today I am excited for Paris :)

So, I am definitely taking advantage of my time here, loving what I am learning (yes I am going to class) and also enjoying myself in my travels. So the "6 weeks left" mark seems like a clock ticking away. However, at the same time, I am missing home, which I know is normal. I have a wonderful home and a wonderful groups of family and friends to miss (yeah you guys). And two months sounds like a long time to have been away from you. Like I said, I was so nice to have Mom here. The one thing I've discovered is that I would not be the kind of person who travels alone. Everywhere I go I want to share what I am seeing with people I love. It is fun to go with the travel buddies I've found in our group - but seeing all this makes me want to have you all here to share it with. So sharing Spain with Mom was wonderful. We really had a perfect 10 days. I laughed more than I've laughed in a long time and I will treasure the special memories of our trip forever. (Love you mom!) Mom is now officially back in the states as of about 30 minutes ago. I dropped her off here at 9:30am for her 11:30am flight out of Madrid. And, she only just landed at 3:24pm atlantic time (9:24 my time) ... such a long flight! (10 hours - the flight back is longer than the flight out because of something with the wind). I have been checking Delta flight checker all day and I felt the normal sense of relief when she finally landed (It always makes me a tiny bit nervous when members of my family are suspended over the ocean). However, it also is sad because that means that she is no longer here in Spain with me. And I miss her and all of you. So I am back here to continue to share my journeys in this way (via blog) that hopefully makes you feel like you're here with me.

In general then, I came here to share my mixed emotions at this the 6 week mark. I am halfway through the Spanish woods. I've been here about 8 weeks and probably would have had these reflections a week ago at the halfway point if my Mom hadn't been here to delightfully distract me. This means 5 weeks of classes and one week of exams - a frightening thought that I will have 4 exams and 3 paper deadlines in 5 weeks. I know it sounds like I'm just traveling all the time - but during these weeks ahead I'll be buckling down to get these assignments done during the weeks. (Page count? Arte-6, Literatura-6 and Historia-11). Like I said, I'm not forgetting that I am here as a student. And I am still pushing for good marks even though the course load is turing out to be a little more challenging.

So my emotions include the normal stresses of student-hood as well as stresses that come with traveling. Then I am also feeling a pair of strong emotions (one pulling me home and the other rooting me to Spain). I feel that 6 weeks is to short a time to have Spain because there is still so much for me to see. On the other hand, I am really missing people back home and as always will be eager to see them when I return. This is where I find myself. With 6 more weeks in Spain to do with as I will. And I plan to fill them and enjoy as much as I can. I cannot imagine doing anything other than taking full advantage of my time here to learn, see, taste, smell and absorb as much as is physically possible. Stay tuned and I'll keep you up on my adventures during these, my final 6 weeks in Spain.

PS. If you haven't read the previous 2 entries you should! They are written by my wonderful guest writer (and Mom) and tell about our adventures in Madrid, Granada, Seville, El Escorial, Segovia and Cuenca. Check them out!

The Adventures of Mom and Madrid Kid

Friday – We began early again this morning so as to get in many activities! We took the Metro to the train station, so that we could catch our 8:45 AVE (High Speed) train to Segovia. After 30 minutes, we arrived at the new AVE station where we caught a city bus to the charming town of Segovia. We knew we only had three hours, so we walked quickly to each sight. After walking under the Roman Aqueduct, we walked up towards the Alcazar, one of the favorite residences of the monarchs of Castile. It also served as a prison and a Royal Artillery School. It burned in 1862, but has been returned to its previous grandeur and is now a museum. We really enjoyed seeing the beautiful ceilings in each of the 11 rooms we were able to tour. Our visit culminated with a 152-step climb up to the tower for a 360 degree view of Segovia.

Next, we were off to Segovia’s cathedral, built in Renaissance times, but very Gothic with its pinnacles and flying buttresses. After touring the cathedral, we exited into Plaza Mayor, where several pastry shops, which we had to explore, greeted us. Two pastries and one baguette later, we followed Rick Steve’s walking tour back to the Aqueduct. Back on the bus, back on the train, back on the Metro, we returned to Madrid for the afternoon. We were hungry, so se sought out a fun place to eat lunch. Keeping with the cathedral theme, Suzanne had eaten at the “Cathedral” restaurant, so we went there for paella and sangria. YUMMY! Next, we hit the streets for some fast paced Madrid shopping. Boots, scarves, and other gifts for home were our targets. After shopping, we walked back across town to reach Reina Park. Suzanne has already described this Central Park like venue, which was lovely, clean, safe and lively. We had some extra bread from lunch, so we fed the ducks. We returned home with left-overs for supper and were able to share another lovely meal with Elena.

Saturday, I was able to go with Suzanne’s group of 14 students (10 from Marist and 4 from Stetson) and their program director, Isabel to Cuenca. Once again, we caught an early train for a 3 hour rail through the La Mancha region to Cuenca. The historic section is perched atop a hill, with a river on either side. We learned that Muslims and then Christians settled in Cuenca due to its defensive and economic advantages. We walked up, up and up to the casas colgades (hanging houses) that barely cling to the rock formations above the river. We crossed a gorge on a bridge that was strewn with locks (a new trend in Spain, to place a padlock

on a bridge, with you and your intended’s name written on the lock and throw away the key). We ate lunch that Elena had kindly packed for us on the steps of the capital and saw a bride and groom exit the church. After lunch, Suzanne, John, Lindsey and I wandered through the winding streets enjoying the local sounds, sights and tastes. We even found a small plaza for a short siesta. We met Isabel for a guided tour of the Museo de Arte Abstraco Espanol. (National Museum of Abstract Art), that was located in one of the hanging houses. Both the inside and outside of this museum were spectacular and very educational. To end our day, John, Lindsey, Suzanne and I briefly toured the Cathedral of Cuenca, constructed under Alfonso VIII after he conquered Castile. We’re on our train now, headed for my last night in Madrid. So with this blog, I shall bid farewell, but with many memories of a special time with the best daughter a mom could have! I’ll turn the blogging back over to Suzanne and along with each of you, await her next adventure. (P. S. I got to end my trip with a lovely taste of churros con chocolate. What could be better!)

Julie "The Mom in Madrid" Reffel

A Mom in Madrid!!

“I can’t believe I’m really here!” said Mom. “Welcome to Spain,” said Suzanne. And that’s how Thursday began. Since Suzanne has so much homework and is being such an expert travel agent, I offered to write a couple of blog entries. For her regular readers, I apologize that it will not be near as interesting, but I’ll give it to her to post and add her own thoughts as her schedule permits. Remember, Suzanne = English Major, Julie = Elementary school teacher. Anyway, here goes…

I arrived in Madrid from Atlanta on Thursday right on time at 9:40 a.m. where I was given explicit instructions (regular readers, you know how explicit she is ☺) on how to get from the airport to the Metro to the Centro de Art Reina Sofia where I was welcomed to Madrid by Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali, which Suzanne earlier described, but was amazing! At approximately 1:30, I was to exit the museum to be greeted by my favorite Madrilènes! From now, I shall blog as “we.” We gathered my suitcase and stopped long enough to eat a wonderful calamari Bocadillo before meeting her art class at Prado Museum for a tour of the major works of Francisco de Goya (again, amazing). Before entering the Prado, we had time to wander through the Royal Botanical Garden. After “class,” Suzanne continued my Prado tour and art lesson by introducing me to many other famous Spanish artists, their historical context, style, controversies, etc. This girl knows her art! Finally, we headed home via Metro to meet Elena, who made a wonderful welcome dinner for us. I’m so glad Suzanne is in Elena’s home. She is a great friend for her (and a great cook too!)

Friday, we began our weekend away! An early morning train from Atocha took us on a 4.5-hour journey to the region of Andalucía, where we were to spend our next three, well-planned days! We arrived in Granada about 1:30 p.m. and checked into our cute hotel (Pension Landarzuri) where we had a three-bed (though we were told to only sleep in two) room with a view! With just enough time to drop our bags, we then began our adventure, with our friend Rick Steve in hand. Some say Suzanne and I look alike, but we REALLY plan alike. Those of you that know us both know that we always try to fit in “just one more thing…” and that we did! Some expected, some spontaneous. Rick’s walking tour took us on a great old town walk. After a few plazas and markets, we ended up at the Cathedral and Royal Chapel. Not knowing much Spanish history (we don’t teach that in grades K-5), Suzanne taught me about the Moorish people, conquered by the Catholic King and Queen. This day was our “Catholic” day, where we met Ferdinand and Isabella in the Royal Chapel (they were really there!) along with Philip the Fair and Juana the Mad (they were really there too!) The cathedral was magnificent and the Royal Chapel kind of eerie. The cathedral is the second largest in Spain (after Seville’s). After touring, we walked uphill through the Albayzin, Spain’s best Moorish quarter to the San Nicholas viewpoint to get a better view of tomorrow’s sight, the Alhambra. After hearing about all the turmoil, conquest, building churches over mosques, and kicking Muslims and Jews out of Spain, it was nice to see the new, Great Mosque of Granada right next to the San Nicolas catholic church. After walking down the hill, we wandered uphill again through the Sacromonte district, home to Granada’s thriving Roma (Gypsy) community. We had decided we wanted to see the Zambra (flamenco) dance, and made a reservation at a cool place for dinner and the show (our special night for the weekend!) We were the first ones there and were seated at the best table of the house, served sangria, house label wine and a 3-course meal! A cute Canadian / Australia couple sat next to us, while a family from Pennsylvania sat at a table on the level below us. They had a cute 4-year old and I offered my lap so she could get a better view. We tapped our toes and snapped our fingers for the fast paced, emotional Zambra show. Our walk back down to our hotel included an evening view of the Alhambra as a preview to our next day.

Saturday we rose early, as to not miss a thing, we ate at our hotel café and struck out. One thing we didn’t get to see on Friday (because it closed at dark) was the Center for the Interpretation of Sacromonte, a Roma open-air folk museum. As we toured the caves, we imagined what it would be like to live and work as this culture did in caves. It was very interesting and provided another amazing view of Granada. (As you are hearing, we had lots of “Up” and “down” between each venue). Down again to Granada, we stopped at a cool 11-century ruin of Moorish baths (where Suzanne recounted her bath experience… see Morocco, day…). Then, we crossed the river, and headed up to the Alhambra, where we spend the entire afternoon touring every nook and cranny. We traveled back in time again to the time of the Moors who flourished here until 1492, when Ferdinand and Isabella took over. It was like being in another world! Suzanne had been to Morocco, so the Arabic feel was familiar to her. We toured the Moorish palace (Palacious Nazaries); Generalife Gardens (with a summer palace) Charles Vs palace (after the Reconquista) and Alcazba (an empty roman fort). We even a wedding couple and the mother of the bride getting ready for a wedding in a church on the grounds. Suzanne might choose to elaborate here, but other highlights were a close-up view of the stone lions (released from their fountain for renovation); an exhibit of Henri Matisse (who was inspired by Alhambra and the Arab influence); Washington Irving (who wrote Tales of the Alhambra during a stay there); and lots of creative ways to move water! After our day at Alhambra, we made it to the train station for our 8:30 p.m., 3-hour trip through the mountains to Savilla! Another cute hotel was our home for the night, Hotel YH Giralda, once an 18th century abbots’ house. We even got the really cute two-floor suite!

Sunday, we were awakened by church bells and called to our 10:00 a.m. mass at the cathedral. Even though it was in Spanish, it was a great spiritual experience. God is a great translator. The organ of 7,000 pipes was unbelievable. What an amazing way to praise God (the topic of the homily, but the way). After mass, we had a leisurely breakfast discussing theology over café con leche. Then we followed Rick once again on a guided walk through the Barrio Santa Cruz. From plaza to plaza, we learned about the Virgin of the Kings, the Plaza of Triumph (saved from the 1755 earthquake), Bartolome Murillo (buried under the Plaza de la Santa Cruz). I learned from Suzanne about how to know the difference in paintings of Immaculate Conception and Assumptions (there are lots of each everywhere! – Murillo is pretty famous for those). We also walked by the Convent of San Jose del Carmen, where St. Teresa stayed. Suzanne has read from her mystic works (here was the literature tie in to the weekend!). We then toured the Alcazar, another palace built by the Moors in the 10th century, which became the home of Christian king Pedro Cruel. It was also an amazing complex of structures. After walking through its gardens, we wandered toward a less “Rick” recommended sight, Plaza Espana, built for the 1929 International fair. It was recently renovated and was really a favorite for the day. Before we got there, we happened through a Festival of Nations, featuring crafts and foods from EVERYWHERE (including the U.S.A. – it’s always interesting to see how others depict us… hamburgers, Budweiser, Hollywood and Coca-Cola). We ate Spanish and German food and viewed all the vendors. It was filled with locals and was great fun. A quick walk back, we had just enough time to tour the cathedral (where we had Mass earlier in the day) and the Giralda Tower. When the Spanish Catholics tore down the mosque to build their cathedrals, they often saved the towers and converted them to bell towers rather than minarets. We had a great view of Savilla to end our day. We grabbed out bags from the hotel, grabbed a cab and got to the Savilla train station in time for our 7:45 AVE (high speed- 350 km/hour) train to Madrid.

Whew… tired… we are. Now it’s Monday, and we’re at school! I have met Isabel, Suzanne’s great new friends, eaten in the cafeteria and am keeping busy while she is in class. It’s a beautiful sunny day and guess what??? I’M IN SPAIN!!!!!!!

Monday, Suzanne and I went off to school together, only I didn’t have to go to class (Thank goodness!) I found a cozy corner around each of her classes to read, write and watch. It was great to meet Isabel, the director of her program and all of her wonderful program-mates. ☺ We had lunch in the cafeteria and then came home to have dinner with Elena.

Tuesday, we rose bright and early to catch the Metro to catch a bus to El Escorial. We had also hoped to see the Valley of the Fallen, an underground monument to the victims of Spain’s 20th-century Civil War, but it is closed for three years to remove the fascist symbols and identify the approximately 50,000 people, both Franco’s Nationalists and the anti-Franco Republicans, who lost their lives in the war. The Monastery de San Lorenzo de Escorial is a 16th century palace built by King Phillip II. It is filled with wonderful artwork, but its dark, stone walls make it a cold place. Much of the inquisition was directed from here. It serves as a grand mausoleum for Spain’s royal family (which helped us get a handle on the order of the royals). We spent much of the morning there, had a lovely lunch, rode the hour-long bus back, rode the Metro home, and I had my first well-earned “Siesta” - what a wonderful concept! Perhaps I can bring that tradition home! We woke from our rest to catch a Metro to Sol to meet Suzanne’s “intercambrio” (friend who wants to practice English, which Suzanne practices her Spanish). She was delightful, and has so much in common with Suzanne. We had an afternoon beverage at Café de Oriente and chatted (fortunately for me, in English).

Wednesday, Suzanne and I boarded opposite Metros. She towards school, me towards Madrid (on my own, well… with the help of my friend Rick Steve). Rick and I completed the “Welcome to Madrid: From Puerta del Sol to the Royal Palace” tour, wandering by bakeries, governmental offices, plazas, convents (where Suzanne and I will return to acquire “dulces.” (more to come on that). Finally, I ended up at the Cathedral of Almudena. It was very modern, yet BEAUTIFUL, consecrated by Pope John Paul II, in 1993. After enjoying the Cathedral, I toured the Royal Palace. It is Europe’s third-greatest palace (after Versailles and Vienna’s Schonbrunn). I was especially impressed with the armory, featuring armor and swords of Ferdinand, Charles V, and Phillip II. Following my stay at the palace, I hiked up to the Temple de Debod, the actual ancient Egyptian temple relocated to Madrid (Suzanne has already told you about that, but it was very cool!). Finally, I boarded a neighboring Metro and found my way home! Suzanne and I went shopping so that we could make a good old American meal for Elena. We found a Supermarket, but made several rounds looking for familiar items (things we have in cans and lots of are in different containers and only on or two brands). We figured out what we needed and headed home to cook, casserole, salad and banana (plantain) bread – yum.

Thursday, (today) we once again went our separate Metro ways, Suzanne to class and me back to some sights I didn’t complete in Madrid. I went first to the top of the cathedral through a museum of beautiful artifacts chronicling the Cathedral’s brief history. They, I wandered through some streets to see a the Descalzes Royal Monestery and some neat shops. We met back at home (Suzanne comes home for lunch on Thursdays), where we ate and

prepared for her after art class, always in a museum. We rode the metro and met the class atht Chapel of San Antoino de la Florida, a church with Francisco de Goya’s tomb and frescoes by the artist. Following that, we went to the Museo de Bellas Artes to see Goya’s prints and original print plates. What a talented mane he was! A shopping spree was next in order. Suzanne is now an official Spanish girl with her own leather jacket (everyone has them, so she should too!). All this said…. It means I have spent a wonderful week in Madrid. Sadly, I only have two days left, tomorrow we take the AVE (High Speed Train) to Segovia to see a Roman Aqueduct. Saturday, I accompany her group to Cuenca. If she let’s me, I’ll tell you about those too.

Julie (Suzanne's mom/ guest writer)

A Spectacle of Suffering

Tuesday, after returning from Morocco, I faced another cultural experience. One that I had not been looking forward to: the bullfight. Tuesday, October 12 is the National Day of Spain and marked the last day of the bullfighting season which begins in the spring. This cultural activity was included in my program. We were not required to go ... but our attendance was highly encouraged. I would not have bought a ticket on my own. But, as this even is included and paid for already, I decided to go. I did discuss it with my Senora, a real animal lover, beforehand. She hates it, but did go once. She says that she tries not to form opinions about things without trying them. It was for this reason that I went, despite my hesitations, to the Corrida de Toros.

It was awful. The Corrida de Toros involves 3 matadors, each with two rounds. That means 6 bulls. I tried to approach this with an open mind. But the first bull came out, this beautiful, strong animal. And I watched as he was stabbed to death. As horses drug his lifeless body out of the ring, I knew that this is tradition is something that I am totally against.

I will give you a dry description of the gory sport: A bull enters the ring. The matador's helpers make the bull run around (tiring him) chasing after their pink cloths. The bull is then stabbed twice by mounted men with long spears. They do not pierce deeply into the skin, only enough to bleed him and weaken him further. The bull is then stuck with as many as six wooden sticks with hooked ends that remain stuck in his back. in the final round, a matador comes out. He makes the weak bull chase his red cloth for about 5 minutes before stabbing him with a long sword through his back and down through the heart. If the heart is not pierced, the sword is removed and stabbed again (and again). When the bull falls, if he is not yet dead, he is stabbed in the back of the head with a small knife until he lies still. Horses are lead out to drag the body away. Only minutes pass before the next bull runs into the ring to face a similar fate. This happens six times.

During the match, one of the older Senoras must have noticed the repulsion on my face. "Oh, chica!" she said. She tried to console me by saying that these animals are "born for this" and without the Corridas, this class of bull would not exist. I was not consoled. I did learn that thankfully (at least) the bulls are cut up and sold to be eaten. The bulls tail is a special Spanish delicacy. This was the only redeeming fact I learned during the event. Mainly I witnessed the slaughter and was deeply saddened. I did stay the entire time, in an attempt to remain with an open mind. By then death of the sixth bull, my mind was entirely made up.

I am loving most of my cultural experiences here in Spain. However, this is one that is repulsive to me. I cannot support the killing of these animals for sport, no matter how deeply rooted the tradition.

Del cuidad a los montanas, another side of Morocco

Today we awoke early and shared in a final breakfast with our Moroccan host families. The host family opportunity was definitely a very rewarding part of the trip. I realized that they are the first muslim family that I have known personally. I general take it upon myself to resist stereotypes and enter into thingswith an open mind. But I realized my knowledge of Islam was limited to a few discussions of the religion in history class. Having lived in a world with the connotations of 9/11 since the age of 12, words like Islam and muslim entered my consciousness already tainted. However, staying with a family that exhibited hospitality, kindness and great enthusiasm for cultural sharing helped to combat those subconscious, learned connotations. My general impressions about the "muslim-ness" of my host family was their modesty and openly faithful living, visibly trying to live according to God's values and principles. However, my main impressions were that this family was more like mine than different. Hassan loves his wife and she loves her husband. And playing with their baby was like playing with any other baby (so cute!). This I know is part ofwhat Moroccan Exchange hopes to show us, that people are people. This family showed us nothing but hospitality and bid us goodbye with the offer of a place to stay whenever we return to Morocco.

Upon leaving Rabat, we set out on a 4-hour mini-bus ride into the Rif Mountains. It was a long windy ride so we stopped for a bathroom break and some more Moroccan mint tea after two hours before driving back further into the mountains. We arrived in the small mountain village. The houses were painted white and clustered along the sloping sides of the mountains. A young couple from the village hosted us for lunch (sandwiches and mountain couscous) and also let

us ask them questions. They have been

married for about 10 years now and have several adorable children (who kept popping in and out of the room where we were eating. They told us the story of how them met. He was visiting her village one day. He saw her from a distance and thought, that is the girl I would like to marry. They got to know each other over the year. He spoke to her father and they were married when she was only 16. They seem to have a marriage that works very well. He has work, they have healthy children, she is well cared for.

However, their life in this village does seem to be a life of hard work. When we asked them what they do in their free time he said he goes to the local bar for a drink (tea or something as the alcohol is not consumed under Islam) and she enjoys watching TV after her work is done. However, she runs the household, cleans,

cooks and looks after the children. He cares for the land and sells things in the nearby city markets. They also have a small plot of farm land that they tend. Their children all attend school (boys and girls) and the hope she has for he children seems the same as any mother for her child: That they learn and grow up to have a more opportunities life than she does, even if that means leaving the village. The families we stayed with in the city of Rabat were upper-middle class in comparison to the humbler lifestyles (more representative of Morocco's population) that we saw in the mountain village. It was good to visit all sides of Morocco and helped me gain a deeper understanding of this country and it's culture.

After this we drove about another half-hour to Chefchaouen, a larger mountain town and a popular tourist destination. The buildings nestled into the mountains are are painted blue and white. This city grew when muslims were expelled from Spain and came to live here. This was probably our more touristy Moroccan experience. We had a few hours to shop (in the chilly, persistent rain) - despite the rain I was a successful shopper even though I hate to barter. Then we met up as a group again for a charming dinner at the Aladdin Restaurant. I had some yummy cheese salad and a meatball dish that was delicious. For dessert - fresh oranges sprinkled with cinnamon - and the combo of these flavors was surprisingly delicious (Don't believe me? Try it. It was wonderful!) We stayed the night in a hostel that we filled and had all to ourselves. Bundled in Moroccan blankets, we met in a living room of the hostel and shared thoughts about the trip in the candlelit room. It was a wonderful closing night of reflection.

The next morning we rose early and packed up. A group of us took a quick, 30-min hike up the mountain for view overlooking the city. It was a tough hike but gave us a worth-it, farewell look out over the city that was out final destination in Morocco. After breakfast in the square (with my final glass of Moroccan tea) we boarded out bus for a drive back the airport in Tangier. We caught our flight out and said goodbye to Morocco and the African continent as the wheels of our plane lifted into the air. I am so grateful for having this opportunity to visit Morocco and return with a better understanding of the complex cultural and religious influences that make up this fascinating country. I think someday that I would like to return.

Rainy Rabat: sharing with Moroccan students, seeing sights, and bathing in a public hammam

The sun rose earlier this morning (as there’s a two hour time difference) but I slept so heavily I missed the 5 am call to prayer (chanted from the minaret of the nearest mosque). I dressed and went out to greet our family – and I met Hassan and Alicpia’s adorable 11-month-old son Bahrat. Hassan had the baby in his arms when I came our, and to my delight he introduced me to the Bahrat and then let me hold him. His dark eyes and dark curly hair were precious. I bounced him and chatted with him while he played with my big silver necklace and grabbed at my nose and bangs. He was so smiley and babbled happy baby-speak all the while. I even got to give him some of his bottle before we ate. He was just darling! Also, I was impressed by how trusting Hassan was. I had only met the man 12 hours ago, and he let me sleep in his home and hold his tiny baby son. It was a gesture that made me feel welcome and at home (even in a foreign-feeling land).

Breakfast was a variety of breads and spreads (fried cakes, pancakes, rolls, olive oil, cheese spread, honey) and delicious Moroccan mint tea (so fresh and sweet!). After breakfast, Hassan led us back to our meeting place (to make sure we knew the way) and said goodbye until lunchtime.

From here, we bussed to the a Boys’ Center in Sale (the poorer region across the river from Rabat) for another discussion with students. This center helps boys (especially from poorer backgrounds) with education and work. It also gives them a haven to hang out that gets them off the streets. One of students who spoke with us helps in the center. He says it is important to get these boys off the streets and away from dangerous influences. A few years ago, there were bombings in Casablanca that were the work of terrorists. These bombings were carried out by young men in hard economic situations with no hope anything better – boys like the ones this center reaches out to help. If these boys have no hope, they are more likely to fall prey to these terrorist groups (with offers of food, shelter, money or drugs). This center is working to prevent that by giving the boys a haven and a future thorough this center. We held out discussion in the main room of the center and talked about stereotypes and the media over more Moroccan tea and cookies.

From there, we proceeded to the Burial ground of Mohammad V (king of Morocco 2 kings ago). There was a huge paved space covered in columns and a giant tower on one side (that were originally built to become an enourmous mosque but the project was never finished). The monument was a large, ornately carved white building that holds the coffin of Mohammad V. It was a beautiful sight (even despite the chilly rain that fell upon our arrival).

Next, we went to visit the Roman Ruins of Chellah. These ruins were once a Roman city. They have since been used as a Spanish burial ground before becoming the public gardens that they are now. It was enchanting to walk around the ruins of a city that was built under the great Roman Empire. The flowers were also pretty. We also visited a pool that is a common site women visit when they wish to get pregnant. They visit this pool and throw a shelled hard-boiled egg into the water, where eels lurk in the shadows. It is said to be a favorable sign if one of the eels swims up and eats the egg (a self-explanatory metaphor). A man by the pool threw in an egg for us just so we could see the eels. It worked and they ate it … the sign there, unknown? The only damper – it was raining quite a bit so our stroll got us a little wet.

We returned to our homes for a little rest and some lunch. The neighbors (mother, daughter and son) from upstairs came down and joined us. We had couscous (like yesterday) but served in one giant bowl for everyone. The bowl was set in the middle of the table and everyone ate from the general triangle area in from of him/her. Alicpia and one of the other ladies even ate with their hands, taking up an handful of couscous and toss-spinning it into a sticky ball until it was solid enough to eat. The daughter was shy but spoke to us a tiny bit in English (she’s learning English in school). The boy had just come from kickboxing lessons and gave us a brief demo when Alicpia prompted him. After lunch, Alicpia showed Lauren and I pictures of Bahrat on her camera. I was struck with slight surprise upon seeing her in a picture at the beach wearing a headscarf and full hijab. Since I had only ever seen her in the home – I’d never even seen her wearing a scarf and it was a little strange to see her so completely covered at the beach of all places. It was an interesting realization. Next, she showed us the picture album of her wedding. It was beautiful! She told us that the bride in a Moroccan wedding can change clothes up to 6 times with a different outfit for each of the days activities. It was so neat that she shared this with us.
After lunch, we met and walked each had the opportunity to walk around Rabat with Moroccan students in small groups. John, Ann Marie and I walked around with two Moroccan boys. One is studying mechanical engineering and the other is an aspiring writer. We walked around the old Medina, along the beach, up through the market, past the parliament and other government buildings and finally back to our neighborhood. We saw

stands with mounds of fresh mint, a grill roasting sheep heads, and even tried cactus fruit from a street vendor (surprisingly sweet and predictably juicy). Conversation was great, and we covered covered an unbelievable range of topics: action movies, beaches, body boarding, Americans, dating, the Nasa Space program and divorce to name a few. In general, I found these boys to be open-minded and respectful. We argued, we disagreed, but we did so in a healthy, kind way. Meeting them was a wonderful opportunity and we’ve already become Facebook friends to keep in touch (how small the world is becoming). After our student walk, we talked with Alicia about travel opportunities like Peace Corps and Fullbright. Then we ran home to grab soap and buckets, for a truly unique bathing experience ...

Hammams (Arab-style public baths) are very common in Morocco. After a some time spent waiting in a cold drizzle and a little confusion about where to go, we arrived at our hammam and were led to the dressing room. Hammams consist of steamy rooms where people to go scrub themselves clean and rinse with buckets of hot water from faucets in the walls. They are separated by gender and Moroccans usually go to the Hammam about once a week. We arrived ready to get squeaky clean with the scrubbing gloves and olive oil soap Alicia had given us. The kicker … women usually do this topless. After a decisive bonding moment in the dressing room, we too left our tops behind and entered the steamy room feeling liberated. (***No photos included***). It really inspired a sense of sharing as we scrubbed together in a steam filled, judgment-free room. There was even the option of getting a scrub from an attendant. Isabel said she does this every time and Alicia raved about it … so I took the plunge and paid the extra 5 euros for a massage-type scrub. I figured, when in Morocco! It was a strange experience – pleasant but something I would never have done in the US. After applying the olive oil soap I lay down. Being scrubbed by this woman, I felt like a baby being washed by her mother. He touch was firm but gentle and reassuring. At times, though the rough glove was almost painful, but not quite, as layers of dead skin were scrubbed from my body (gross? sorry). But afterwards, oh my. My skin was smoother than it has been in a long time. I literally couldn’t stop touching my arms because they were so soft. It was delightful. It was a bathing experience unlike any other and one I will never forget.

We returned to our homestays feeling clean and refreshed. Our supper was another communal bowl, this one full of vegetables and meat that we ate with pieces of bread (in lieu of silverware). After dinner, Alicpia asked us excitedly if we’d care to try on some traditional Moroccan clothes. Of course we said yes. A minute later, she emerged from her bedroom with two of her wedding dresses! They were exquisite with shining beadwork and delicate embroidery. She dressed us with care and loved taking pictures of us in her beautiful dresses. After, she asked if we wanted to try on more, and though we were tired we agreed without hesitation. We shared in several rounds of dress-up/photo shoot, with Alicpia even joining us by the end while Hassan took the photos. It was an amazing way for her to share her culture with us (and the pics were pretty cute too!) After, we really were exhausted and I was asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.

Crossing the Gibralter Straight

المغرب (Morocco). A country in Africa. A country that's population is 99 percent Arab and 99 percent Muslim. A country that borders both the Atlantic and the Mediterranean Sea. A country more unlike my own than any I had yet visited. But what a visit it was!

We landed in the Tangier airport in the afternoon (after changing back 2 hours - one for time zone and one because they don't have daylight savings time in Morocco). Our flight was a little late (as is common of the cheap Easy Jet airline) so we met with our guide quickly and loaded our bags onto the bus. Our weekend guide was Alicia, who began working with Moroccan Exchange - our program - after spending two years in Morocco with the Peace Corps. She was a cool person to talk to. After a short bus ride into the city of Tangier, we

arrived at the DARNA women's center for lunch. It is very hard for women to be divorced or single mothers in Morocco. This center helps them out with classes in things like computers, reading, sewing, weaving ... and it helps them find employment. Women in the center also run a cafe and they made the delicious couscous that we ate for lunch. We also got to see a woman making a hand-made Moroccan rugs on a loom in the center.

Also, during lunch we had the opportunity to meet with two Moroccan students. We had quite an interesting discussion during lunch. First, our female student (also a teacher of English at a high school) explained her hijab (headscarf) to us. We learned that she chose to don the hijab at 14 (a decision she made on her own, not forces upon her by her parents). She said that in the Koran, Allah decreed that women should wear this headscarf (as well as the modest clothing included by the term “hijab”) as a physical representation of their modesty. Our conversation then crossed a wide variety of subjects. We learned that there is a new law regarding women’s rights, which rises the marrying age for women from 16 to 18 and requires a man to ask his wife before he marries another wife (as he can have up to 4 wives). Many Moroccans see this law as a step in the right direction. We also learned that, though a man must be Muslim to marry a Muslim woman, a woman need not be Muslim to marry a Muslim man. We then discussed arranged marriages and here tension rose between our two Moroccan students. The boy spoke in favor of arranges marriages and seemed to think that the best manner for finding a wife. He said that after 3 years of dating a girl she would be boring and marriage would not appeal, so arranged marriages are better. He also made a comment that an unmarried girl of 27 was old and her chances of finding a husband were slim. Here our females student fired out, “So I am 27 and do not yet have a husband. Are you declaring that I will not find a husband.” This girl has completed more school and now works as an English teacher at a high school (and is still unmarried at 27). Our male student shied away from his statement and begrudgingly said that she would probably find a husband. Finally, our talk rounded off with a discussion of homosexuality. The Islam religion is very against homosexuality and thus – there are not many people that are openly gay in Morocco. Our female student said she had never known Anyone who was gay in her life. Our male student guessed that a fellow student was gay (because of his nice clothes and feminine behavior). He said that no one was openly gay and this guy just seemed a little different. He claimed to have no problem with people being gay but he didn’t think it natural. He refused the idea of “being born gay” and insisted that the media is to blame. “How would he decide to like boys if he never saw it before?” He said again that he had no problem with it, but didn’t seem likely to be friends with a gay person. This concluded our lunch discussion.

From here, we left Tangier on our bus and drove along the coast to Asilah. We arrived at the Asilah beach at sunset and had the opportunity to ride camels along the beach! It was awesome. I nearly lost me seat with the camel rose and was surprised by how high it is to be on a camel’s hump. But the ride was lovely, though short. The camels were tied camel to camel in a line and we rode a couple hundred feet down the beach and back – the baby camels running with us in the pack to stay close to their mommies (cute!). We then walked around the artsy Medina (old neighborhood) of Asilah in the dark. We saw many walls painted with colorful murals and we went out to an ocean viewpoint (too dark to see the ocean, but the lights of the city were pretty).

From there we drove on toward Rabat. We drove past a shanty town in the dark. Alicia told us that Morocco is suffering hard economic times as the population of young people grows and work is scarce. As we drove through Rabat, we saw boys playing soccer in the streets. We arrived in the neighborhood where our host families lived and walked to the meeting place. Lauren and I were placed in the same homestay and soon our “host father” Hassan came and took us the short distance to our house. There we met his wife Alicpia. They were a little sleepy (as our flight had delayed our arrival). But they were very welcoming and kind. Their home is lovely. The walls are all tiled in blue and white. The living room has a sunroof because this room extends up through the second and third floors to the roof. Their upstairs neighbors have windows that could look down into the living room – which was a little strange – but I guess they know their neighbors. We put our things in the pretty furnished room Hassan showed us – two twin beds with purple sheets – and slipped off our shoes and into the slippers they provided. (They host students fairly often). We then were led into the beautiful dining room. It was draped with red and gold curtains and there was a build in Moroccan-style couch with deep red cushions lining three sides of the room. We removed our slippers (customary whenever walking on carpet) and sat down to dinner: delicious Moroccan veggie stew, mini-paninis of meat and cheese, dates and a sweet honey/sesame seed dessert (that reminded me of wine cookies that my Italian grandma makes). Wonderful! We went to bed tired after a busy day of travel and sightseeing.

My New Spanish Friend (and pooping in the Nativity)

I have exciting news. I'm finally making friends with someone who's not from the states. A few weeks ago I received an email from Isabel with a list of people who wanted to practice a "language intercambio (English/Spanish language practice). This sounded great so Ilooked down the list and found Elia. She is 24 yeard old and she is studying journalism. She's in her second year at Carlos III (but the 4th year of her program, she studied 3 years in Segovia). She also loves to read and she is really involved with theatre at her school. Sound familiar? I thought so :)So I emailer her about a month ago and she said that she wouldn't be back in Madrid until the end of September. Her family lives in Asturias (the north of Spain) and she was there during the summer holiday. So - about a week ago, she returned to Madrid but she had exams and theatre rehearsal her first few days in town so we couldn't meet up ... until Sunday night!

We met in Sol Sunday night. On the metro there I was feeling a little drained and it was rainy, but I pushed through cause I knew this would be really cool. We met and she is super cute. She was a tiny bit late, so I was standing at the meeting place when she arrived. She ran up to me and give me a big hug plus the usual kiss, kiss (typical Spanish greeting). Then we set off to get a coffee.

We walked to the area around the Opera house and found a cute cafe. We sat and talked for two hours (all in Spanish) and it was so much fun. I told her about American holidays like Halloween and Thanksgiving. We discussed the popularity of football and "futbol" in our two countries. We talked about gay marriage policies in both countries. She expressed her opposition to bullfighting as she doesn't think that "tradition" should justify killing animals. We talked about the theatre we have both done. We talked about our families. Also, she told me about Asturias. She said it rains a lot there and that it is very green. She also said that theyare known for their cider and tried to explain a special was that it was served. After a while, I understood that she was explaining a high pour (with the bottle above ones head and the glass below one's waist. It sounded cool. She sent me a VIDEO later on facebook and I was really impressed (and am now sharing it with you). She said that the high pour is traditional and the cider is always served that way cause it "excites the bubbles." And, we discussed the intensity of "going out at night as a Spaniard" and I promised her that I could make it out one night for a true all-nighter with her :)

I left Sunday feeling like we'd really clicked and was excited to meet again, which we did on Tuesday night. This time we sat outside in Plaza Mayor and held our conversation in English. (I think we'll switch like this so we can both practice). This time we talked about Christmas traditions in Spain and the US. When I mentioned all the lights and decorations, she said, "Yeah, like in the movies" (a reminder of how much our media represents us). She said that her mom loves to decorate with lights too. Her dad usually says, "This isn't Christmas, it's Las Vegas." We talked about other decorations and it took forever for me to explain what garland was (I couldn't figure our the Spanish word for branches for the longest time).

But, probably the funniest thing that came out of our conversation was when we talked about the Nativity Scene. I told her that one is usually part of our decorations and she said it is popular in Spain too. AND, she said, along with the regulars Mary, Jesus, Joesph ... they also have a guy pooping in the back of the stable - wait, What?? That's right pooping. She said that this added figure began as tradition in Catalonia but it has now spread all across Spain. I didn't know what to say. This seemed like a complete joke but I believed her. She said they sell the figurines in the plazas and stuff during the holidays. She said I might be leaving too early but there's a chance that I'll be able to see one of these little guys. Upon returning home I did some further research. Apparently pooping has something to do with symbolizing fertility and growth - I think that it symbolizes th Catalonias enjoy a good laugh. I found another tradition about a Christmas log that poops out presents when the children hit it with sticks. Here are the articles I found:

The Strange Catalan Obsession with Poop

The Pooping Peasant "El Caganer" in Spain's Nativity Scene

Upon further search I found novelty "Caganers" including the Queen, Obama and the Pope.

After that strange detour in the

conversation, we talked about Spanish dating traditions and when people usually get married. She said it seems like people get married earlier in America. In Spain, they wait to get married until they are ready to settle down. As soon as they are married they begin to have a family. However, they are also more likely to live together before they are married.

We also discussed and recommended books for each other. She recently read "The Curious Incident of the Dog in Nighttime" and loved it. (This was one of your

book club recommendations Mom, we should read it). She said that she even read it in English because the book is written "by a character" with autism so the reading level is simpler. She suggested and I could do the same by reading "El nino con el pijama de rayas." (Both she and Elena have recommended this story). It is about a boy in the Holocaust - but it is also "written by the boy" so the level of Spanish would be easier. I might check out a local bookstore and pick it up before I go :)

After this it was about time to head home for supper. However, before leaving, I got to meet Elia's parents. They are here in Madrid for a few days to visit her at school. They were very nice and it was fun to meet her family. They even invited me to come visit their home in Asturias if I can manage it - I'll really try to go if I can :)

Anyway, that is my exciting news about my new exciting friend. I might check in again before I go - but I leave for Morocco on Friday ... so when I return I have lots of exciting things to tell you! Bbbbbsssssssssss (aka Besos)

A Weekend "at Home" In Madrid

Saturday morning I slept a little - a deserved rest from our busy Tolodeo day. After waking a little after 10, I was in my room (blogging about Friday) when Elena woke up and peeked into my room to see if I'd had breakfast yet. When I said no, she said that she wanted to make me something yummy. I assumed I'd go the kitchen in a few minutes, but to my delightful, surprise Elena appeared in my doorway with my breakfast on a tray. She is so sweet! Breakfast was cafe con leche, gingersnap cookies and buttered toast sprinkled with sugar. Yum! Plus, everything is tastier in bed don't you think? Elena is a super senora and I am loving living with her! Anyway, it was a lovely way to begin my morning and it made me happy while I finished my Toledo blog. (There's a little meta-blog moment for you).

After a morning of writing and homework and a lovely lunch with Elena - then Elena went to siesta and I headed out to Reina Sofia, Madrid's more modern art museum. There I met Lindsay and John. We all wanted to see the museum and on Saturdays it's free from 2:30-9 pm so this was the perfect time to do it :) There was a cool sculpture in the courtyard with which we took pictures. Then, we started our artsy exploration on the second floor where the most famous painting in the museum resides: Picasso's Guernica. This black and white war painting was huge in person and seeing it in person was a fantastic experience. You can see the texture of the paint as well as some of the images he painted under layers of paint. Always awesome to see a masterpiece in

person! After this we continued to explore - seeing many minor works by Picasso, Salvador Dali and Joan Miro. It was fun walking around to see the many unusual images. After this we

moved into the temporary exhibits (these were the most recent works, ones done in the past decade or so). I didn't know any of the artists but these exhibits were very moving. Two exhibits particularly caught my attention. First Exhibit: included 101 black and white portrait

photos each framed identically and lined up along three walls of a room. Each photo was captioned with a first name and an age (ie. Pamela 3 years). However, what made this most powerful was that in each photo the person was one age older than the last person. Each photo was unique and the ages ranged (from 8 months to 100 years old). The result, an exceptional display of "a human life." Super cool.

Second Exhibit: This one was even more powerful. This room had two rows of identically framed newspaper front pages running the length of all four walls. All the headlines shared a common theme: September 11. All different countries. All different languages. An exhibit in Spain about a fateful day in America. I actually was talking with Elena the other day about 9/11. Our conversation surprised me I guess. She spoke about it the same way people do in the States. She had that same tone of voice, she remembered where she was when it happened (about 4pm here) and she remembers watching it with disbelief on TV. I guess I'd just thought of it as such an American event and I forgot that

the rest of the world was watching too. I had that same wave of feelings in this exhibit. It reminded me that this event doesn't just belong to America. It is regrettably and forever part of our shared history as citizens of the world. It was a moving exhibit. For this reason, the exhibits of the "newer art" were fascinating. They are unknown and new and thus have a great power to move those who accidentally stumble upon them. I also enjoyed my exploration because we were allowed to take photos almost everywhere in the museum (without flash). This was strange to me but it was great as a way to capture what I was seeing and share it with you all. (The above photos are well known works by Picasso and Joan Miro). This was a pleasant visit. I always love art museums and this one is huge so of course I enjoyed it immensely!

After the museum I returned for supper and then set out for a night on the town. A group of us headed out to Chueca (the gay neighborhood) to check out the night life there. We first went to a bar with sweet, strong Sangria. It was good but 'un poco fuerte' (thus my only drink of the night). After this we ventured into the neighborhood and into a few gay bars. I could sense the fun vibe, but Lindsay and I decided to leave before we went to a club. I can tell that I would probably enjoy the Chueca nightlife a lot because the dancing is wilder and the chance of being hit on by a creepy guy is much reduced (as they aren't interested in me, lol). However, Lindsay and I wanted to visit the Rastro again in the morning and we didn't want to pay for a cab home. So we caught the last metro and ended our night "early" at 1:30.

My decision to come home early was rewarded when I awoke rested in the morning to visit the Rastro. It was a successful shopping trip :) Then, after the Rastro, we headed to the Almudena Cathedral. This cathedral is next to the Royal Palace. It was consecrated by Pope John Paul II, is the head of the Diocese and the seat of a bishop. The interior is beautiful - with "pop art" styled stained glass windows and brightly painted ceiling. I didn't take pics (because we were there for mass) but I intend to return to see it at length as a tourist. The mass was beautiful. Bells ringing in two towers called us to the church as we walked from the Rastro. We found seats in the center (to see better). This was wonderful because in a loft directly behind us the organ began playing and an angelic choir sang during the service. It was a very worshipful environment. And, I understood most of the service. It was a little longer because someone was "beatified" in the service. Lindsay (my Catholic friend) told me that this particular nun was being honored on her way to sainthood. Thus, the subject of the bishop's homily was all about this nun, her faithful life and her good works, as a good example to us all.

I am very glad I could go to mass at this Cathedral and am glad I found a "church buddy" in Lindsay. We won't be able to go much as we are traveling many of the other Sundays. However, we are planning to go close to our last Sunday here as it will be the first Sunday of Advent.

In short, though I "stayed home" this weekend, I didn't spent my days lounging about. It was a wonderful weekend spent seeing my "Spanish home" ... pues, es todo. Hasta luego.